Marc Jacobs takes Louis Vuitton back to the Swinging Sixties with geometric shapes, trademark checks and a whole lot of acid green for Paris Fashion Week's grand finale
Marc Jacobs' bright and bold show brought Paris Fashion Week to a closeShows begin in Milan tomorrow for what is the last of the four fashion weeks
18:10 GMT, 3 October 2012
What do you get if you mix Louis Vuitton's world famous Damier check with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren's distinctive stripes The answer: A 1960s extravaganza showcased in a dramatic, geometric setting.
Louis Vuitton's Paris Fashion Week show, helmed by LV's creative director Marc Jacobs and with the space curated by Buren, opened in typically spectacular style with models in bold checks rendered in acid brights, pale grey or stark black and white, streaming down escalators into the Louvre.
Buren, known for his minimalism, rose boldly to the occasion, creating a shopping precinct with four full-scale escalators, each decorated with his signature 8.7cm stripes, that wowed spectators inside the museum – many of whom described the scene as 'exquisite'.
Back to the future: The Louis Vuitton show was a vision of checks – and managed to feel both retro and futuristic at the same time
'It was already big, all I
did was make it bigger,' said Buren of his transformation of this most famous of French art galleries. 'It was
others that called me a minimalist, not me.' Of course, the sky's the limit when you're
backed by Europe's richest man and LVMH-owner Bernard Arnault, with whom
Buren mingled before the show.
From a fashion point of view, the
collection was certainly unforgettable, with 64 retro looks with echoes of Mary Quant making a bold optical statement. While most silhouettes were slim and clean, subtle volume came in the form of gentle
puffed shoulders or a flippy pleat at the bottom of a miniskirt.
Miniskirts, beehives and exposed
midriffs galore pointed to one thing: The swinging Sixties are back (viz Moschino's flower power show earlier this week). Simple silhouettes were decked out in
Damier, while skirt and trouser suits made an impact in taupe, black
and white geometric prints.
Louis Vuitton is a house that is
proud of its tradition, but also likes to evolve. The collection saw the
ubiquitous monogram banished for the first time.
Instead, one recurrent feature was – according to the show notes – 'the smallest sequins ever produced.' Thousands of those microscopic sequins added dazzle to the Damier check and brought metallic shimmer to
dresses and skirt suits.
'It's all about being graphic,' Jacobs said after the show. And yes, it most certainly was.
Drama: Marc Jacobs' chose dramatic staging that saw models in chartreuse column dresses and maxi skirts descend escalators into the show space
Taking a bow: Marc Jacobs receives his applause at the bottom of the stairs as the show ends
Louis Vuitton's trademark Damier check was used in jumbo form across slim column skirts and maxi dresses. The check – most commonly seen in the contrasting brown and tan of the LV brand, was given a Sixties makeover in bright yellow, black and white or greys and browns
Gently puffed shoulders added volume, while exposed midriffs suggested next summer we'll be seeing a lot more exposed stomachs. RIGHT: Pleated mini skirts and bows in beehive-styled hair gave Sixties-style dresses a cute twist
A micro shorts suit would suit the younger Louis Vuitton fan, while the tunic would look just as sophisticated over a pair of white trousers. RIGHT: Yellow has been a strong theme of all three fashion weeks so far, joining a bold palette including hot pink, bright red and juicy orange as colours we'll be wearing next spring
Setting the scene: The Paris Louvre was transformed by artist Daniel Buren, adding his own distinctive stripes to the escalator, and Louis Vuitton's checks to the runway itself
VIDEO: Louis Vuitton back to the Swinging Sixties with geometric shapes, trademark checks and a whole lot of acid green