Lauren family take front row seats for lavish Spanish fiesta as designer Ralph shows 80th catwalk collectionLadylike bullfighters flamenco down the runway in jaunty fedoras, frilled sleeves, toreador
jackets and hip-ballooning jodhpurs.
22:42 GMT, 13 September 2012
Ralph Lauren presented his 80th runway
collection today, his four-decade career receiving both a standing ovation and an adoring kiss from his wife, Ricky.
The 72-year-old designer had just shown a flamenco-filled collection for the last day of New York Fashion Week – and when Mr Lauren picks a point of inspiration, it's never just a simple scattering of subtle references.
Whether it is Downton Abbey (last season), The Great Gatsby (the season prior) or China (last year), his collections become live productions of his chosen cultural idiom – quite literally, they turn into walking cliches. And for spring/summer 2013, the Spaniards were clearly on the designers mind.
Standing ovation: As he took his 80th bow on the runway, in front of his wife, Ricky, who he gratefully kissed (left), it becomes obvious that he is still, and will forever be, the great all-American brand
Ernest Hemingway's bullfighting novel The Sun Also Rises
came to life as favourite senorita Karlie Kloss sauntered down the runway in jaunty fedoras, frilled sleeves, toreador
jackets and hip-ballooning jodhpurs.
the show began, the designer gave some idea of his collection's direction when he tweeted: 'I am forever inspired by
faraway exotic places. I may never have traveled there, but in my
imagination it is real.'
While his overzealous imagination may
be to blame for the show's too many costumey moments – in the fringing,
heavily gilded matador decorations and bull-fighting boleros – the
Ralph Lauren blueprint was nonetheless evident, and at times beautifully executed, in his feminine/masculine mix.
An example lies in his most stylish outfits, which came in simple
black and white. Like the ivory no-fuss knee length curvy dress, worn with a tilted fedora, or the
oversized white shirt tucked in to a black floor-sweeping evening skirt.
Hey, Senorita: For spring/summer 2013, Ralph Lauren turned his runway into an ode to all things Spanish
Ladylike bullfighters: Ernest Hemingway's novel The Sun Also Rises
came to life as models sauntered down the runway in jaunty fedoras, frilled sleeves, toreador
jackets and full-hipped jodhpurs
Multicoloured stripes: Accessories took their cue from a
multicoloured poncho-style striped overthrow, the theme seen in
bucket-style bags and multiple strands of colourful of beads
Salsa time: Using a base of black, Ralph Lauren infused
shots of Spanish tomato red, dusty blue and turquoise, with a just enough signature
Ralph Lauren floral prints and a pop of purple to keep things interesting
Using a base of black, he infused
shots of Spanish tomato red and turquoise, with a just enough signature
Ralph Lauren floral prints and a pop of purple to keep things interesting.
The accessories took their cue from a multicoloured poncho-style striped overthrow, the same theme seen in bucket-style bags and multiple strands of colourful of beads.
But taking away the Hola! music and stripping down the thrown-it-all-on outfits, were countless worth-while separates.
A white boxy tuxedo would look great
with a pair of light wash jeans for summer, while oversized shirts, Le
Smoking trousers, Edwardian tailoring and romantic ruffles are classics he gets right time
and time again – new takes on pieces Ralph Lauren fans already know and love.
epa03396698 A model presents a creation by US designer Ralph Lauren during the Mercedes-Benz Spring Fashion Week in New York, New York, USA, 13 September 2012. Spring 2013 collections are presented at the New York Fashion Week from 06 to 13 September. EPA/PETER FOLEY
Too costumey: While the show had many Mexican-themed costume shop moments, the Ralph Lauren blueprint was evident in his feminine/masculine mix
The after dark portion of the collection
was a study in black and red evening elegance. The gowns felt modern despite
their Spanish roots; and one simple white gown, red rose at the hip,
will make many classicist-with-a-twist brides very happy.
Since its inception, the Ralph Lauren brand has made many looks its own – equestrian, country club, ski-lodge chic – while tying them in seamlessly to all-American fashion.
While Spain was a little more unexpected, as the designer took his 80th bow on the runway, in front of Jessica Alba, Ryan Lochte, Olivia Wilde and his family, it is obvious that despite the sometimes gimmicky feel of his collections (the moment when Miss Kloss walked out waving her clutch like fan), he is still just the great American brand.
Simple and sleek: His most stylish outfits, which came in
black and white, like the ivory no-fuss knee length curvy dress (left)
were the overly simple, classic pieces just a hint of salsa samba
Blushing bride: The one simple white gown, red rose at the hip, will make many classicist with a twist brides-to-be very happy
Evening elegance: The after-dark portion of the collection – a study in bright red and black – felt modern despite their Spanish roots