Eastern promise: Issa London unveils panoply of print in colourful catwalk show
There was an unmistakeable eastern feel at Daniella Helayel's Issa London show tonight.
Inspiration was drawn from as far and wide as Russia, Mongolia and China, with heavily printed fabrics, fur hats, and dresses over trousers marking this out as a collection that has traversed the globe, even before it goes on sale.
Gemma Arterton and Tinie Tempah sat front row as model after model took to the catwalk wearing colourful creations rich in texture, colour and pattern.
Patterned: Prints took a Trans-Siberian journey from Moscow to Mongolia, with jumbo paisley and the onion domes of St Basil's cathedral making an appearance
From Russia with love: A shimmering green sheath was printed with Russia's archetypal onion-domed buildings and graphic patterns, while right, those onion domes again, this time on a classic Issa wrap dress
At the forefront of the collection
was a panoply of prints, from those inspired by the ornate embellishment
of Faberge eggs, the imagery of Moscow's St.Basil's cathedral and the
paisley print of Russian dolls, to natural prints in blues and greens
inspired by brightly coloured Mongolian flags, and Chinese dragons and lanterns intertwined with patterns from Ming vases.
Touches of the Mongolian nomads'
traditional dress was found in cropped jackets embellished with rich
wool threads and feathers.
Fabrics were luxe and elegant:
velvet, woven gold silk coupe or lace in hues of bronze and gold;
evening dresses of China red lace or inky blue silk satin.
Riveted: Former Bond girl Gemma Arterton and Pass Out singer Tinie Tempah watched from the front row
Kate would wear this well: Full-length gowns with graphic prints, or right, in emerald green, would suit the duchess's slender physique
Delicate lace was embellished with a cascade of crystals
Printed tunics and skinny pants were topped with Russian fur hats at a jaunty angle
A jumbo paisley print on vivid vermilion fabric adds to the Eastern feel of the Issa collection
That classic wrap made an appearance
here of course – it is the bread-and-butter of the brand, and Daniella
never forgets her loyal devotees love the perennial favourites.
Here, it was given the AW12 treatment
in myriad ways: worked in emerald green, or with those vibrant prints.
Eastern promise: Paisley print originated in Persia and India centuries ago. Right, kimono dresses with bold graphic florals had an unmistakeable Eastern flavour
The collection, the second from Issa
London since the label was heavily invested in by Camilla al Fayed,
certainly proved its potential for a global market tonight.
Mohammed al Fayed's daughter bought a
51 per cent share in the company in July last year, with a view to
creating a new website and opening the market up to a wider global
Much of the collection will facilitate the opening of a
dialogue with the diverse international market: headscarves, high necks and dresses
worn over trousers were juxtaposed with gossamer-thin dresses lavish
with cascading crystals.
It is a collection
that sought inspiration from far flung corners of the globe – and it was
all the richer for it.
Global appeal: High necklines, headscarves and trousers under dresses; barely-there lace dresses… with Camilla al Fayed's funding, Issa plans to expand globally, and this collection certainly has mass appeal
Long was the order of the day at Issa – this midnight blue dress was stunning
The AW12 take on last season's successful lace collection is floor-length column in fiery red
Daniella Helayel never forgets that her customers adore her classic shapes