Jemma's gems: My make-up shake-up
BY JEMMA KIDD
08:41 GMT, 29 October 2012
Stuck in a beauty rut Then what you need is make-up artist Jemma Kidd’s tricks, tips and insider secrets…
My top ten skin boosters
Any beauty regime should start with looking after your skin, which is the true indicator of how you are on the inside. These simple steps can make a world of difference.
Eat a good diet full of fresh organic food and plenty of roughage to maintain a healthy digestive system.Drink at least 2 litres of still water throughout the day. Herbal teas contain beneficial antioxidants, and hot water with lemon is super-cleansing and a source of vitamin C.Get enough sleep – a good night’s rest can take years off you. Magnesium oil is a great relaxant, and a warm bath with epsom salts before bed will help you sleep.Cleanse and moisturise every day. A good skincare regime, using products appropriate for your skin, will help keep it in optimum condition.Exfoliate regularly to slough off the dead cells on the surface and encourage the rejuvenation of the skin underneath. Some very gentle exfoliators can be used daily, whereas others should only be used once or twice a week.Stress has a negative impact on the skin, so make sure you find balance in your life by having time out for yourself. Meditation, soaking in the bath and no phone calls or emailing after 6pm are all things that help me to unwind.Exercise is good for the skin, as it aids circulation, increasing oxygen levels in the blood and speeding up the elimination of toxins. Exercising in the fresh air is even better, giving you that unmistakable healthy glow.If you can, see a facialist once every couple of months, or whenever you feel you need it, for a really good cleanse.
Colonic and liver detoxes are good for the skin, as they accelerate the elimination of toxins from your system.Wear SPF on your face all year round – factor 30 in winter and 50 in summer. This will help to prevent signs of ageing.
How I make up my face
After using a gentle cleanser – anything from Dove soap to a mild cream – I apply an antioxidant serum with a high vitamin C content and a moisturiser with SPF. Then I neutralise any redness using a colour corrector. I don’t like the look of too much foundation, so sometimes I just use a tinted moisturiser to balance out my skin tone. If I need more coverage, I use a light-reflecting liquid foundation. Everyone is different and you can adapt your regime depending on your skin.
Skincare ingredients that really work
Antioxidants Alpha lipoic acid, co-enzyme Q10, carnosine and vitamins A, C and E, which mop up damaging free radicals and optimise cell health.
Hyaluronic acid helps the skin retain water, plumping and supporting it.
Sunscreen protects the skin against ageing UVA rays, as well as burning UVB rays.
Peptides such as Matrixyl, Dermaxyl and Syn-ake, which stimulate the production of collagen.
Vitamins, especially A, C and E. Vitamin A is the only skincare ingredient that the US Food and Drug Administration recognises as truly anti-ageing.
Stem-cell ingredients extracted from sea algae, plants and flowers stimulate the production of collagen and help repair and strengthen the skin.
Beauty bag essentials
These are what I consider to be the key products to have in your beauty kit. You may use some every day and others only on special occasions. My advice is to use everything in the skincare category on a regular basis.
Skincare Cleanser, treatment serums/oils, SPF, moisturiser (for day, night, eyes and lips).Complexion perfectors Primer, foundation (or tinted moisturiser), colour corrector, concealer, skin illuminator, powder/setting spray.Enhancers Eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, brow kit (tweezers, brow brush, powder or pencil), blusher, bronzer, highlighter, lipstick, gloss.
Make-up for work
In the workplace, make-up needs to be subtle, enhancing your features in a natural way and making you look polished and professional, even if you’ve only got a few minutes to get ready.
Using an angled brush and a matt powder that matches your eyebrows, draw a sharp line right under the brow to define the shape. Then blend the colour up into the brow with light feathery strokes. This gives a strong shape but with a soft, natural finish.Prep and prime the eyelids to give a longer-lasting base and to eliminate any redness, which will make you look tired.Brush light grey eyeshadow over the entire lid. Define the socket with a darker grey, blending it out and focusing on the outer corners. Use a soft brush so you can blend as you apply – the primer makes blending quicker and holds the pigment, so you can apply less eyeshadow.Apply gunmetal eyeliner along the upper lash line, working it into the roots of the lashes to make them look fuller. Dot eyeliner along the roots of the lower lashes and blend it out to make them look thicker without creating a hard line.Apply mascara to the top lashes only.
Apply primer over the face to ensure a smooth base that lasts all the working day. If you have oily skin, use an oil-absorbing primer for a matt finish. Blend liquid foundation over areas that need it, especially beneath the eyes and around the nose and mouth. Use concealer to cover up dark circles or blemishes.Mattify the face with a light dusting of translucent powder.Using a medium blusher brush, apply matt bronzer under the cheekbones to sculpt them. The powder underneath will soften the colour and give a subtle finish.
Finish with a soft pink lipstick with a creamy hydrating formula that is not too glossy but not too pigmented.
Make up for day, left, and vamping it up for evening, right
Make-up for play
For evening, aim to look your best without appearing too made-up – you want to give the illusion that you look like this all the time. This fresh, pretty look, which can be put together in five minutes, is feminine rather than vampy.
Skin must be clear, fresh and naturally radiant with a healthy flush to the cheeks, eyes should look bright and sparkly, and lips should be soft. Play up your best feature: if you have a big smile and a great mouth, emphasise your lips and wear lots of gloss; if you have gorgeous eyes, bring the focus on to them.
Tidy the brows and fill in any gaps with matching brow powder and an angled brush to frame the face.Prime the eyes to get rid of redness and create a base for the eyeshadow.Blend a soft pearl eyeshadow in a light natural tone, such as a rosy gold), over the entire lid to brighten and subtly define the eyes. Blend a little along the lower lash line for a soft finish.Coat the top and bottom lashes with lots of black mascara.Add corner lashes to open up and elongate the eyes.
Apply a light foundation only where you need it to even out the skin tone and cover up any flaws.Blend cream highlighter along the cheekbones for extra radiance.Blend a little lip and cheek tint into the apples of the cheeks for a really natural sheer flush.
Apply the lip and cheek tint to the lips, too, for a natural stain, and brush a rose-pink gloss (12) on top.
Make up for 40-somethings
There’s no need for extreme solutions when the first signs of ageing appear. Smart skincare and sympathetic make-up can keep you looking younger for longer. Here, the pinky peach of the eye, lip and blush colours blend together well, so that nothing deflects from the age-defying youthful radiance.
A few tricks can keep you looking young and at your best
The make-up palette is very natural, so make the brows slightly darker than usual to frame and structure the face. Use an eye primer to neutralise any redness, which can be very ageing. All the focus is on the skin, so keep the eyes understated with a simple wash of peach-toned nude powder eyeshadow over the lid. Curl the lashes and apply black mascara. Then add corner lashes to open up and elongate the eyes.
The older we get, the more pigmented the skin becomes, and fine capillaries and thread veins often show more, so use a medium-coverage foundation and concealer where you need it, especially around the nose and under the eyes. To bring out your skin’s radiance, mix a little cream highlighter with the foundation on the back of your hand. This gives the skin a soft luminosity.Dust the T-zone lightly with mineral powder to set the make-up. The T-zone is the area of the face across the forehead and down the nose and chin.Cheeks lose their plumpness as we age, so use blusher to emphasise the cushiony apples of the cheeks. Peach tones are incredibly flattering on most skin tones, being neither too pink nor too orange. Pink can be too youthful, but peach has a maturity to it and matches skin tones better. Brush it along the cheekbones and blend it into the apples of the cheeks to bring out a natural-looking flush and warm up the face.
Apply a moisturising creamy lipstick with a shiny finish in a peachy shade (4), so there are no clashing colours.
Over 50s dos and don'ts
Choose colours that look natural against your skin; stick with rose- or coral-toned lipstick or gloss.
Use peachy blush: smile and apply it to the apples of your cheeks, then blend, blend, blend.
Use mascara or lash tint, but sparingly on the lower lashes; use waterproof if your eyes water.
Apply light-reflecting foundation or tinted moisturiser, but only where you really need it.
Blend creamy concealer with moisturiser to ensure that it doesn’t cake or settle in fine lines.
Wear vibrant, contrasting or strong, hard colours. Use metallic or shimmer make-up, as it exaggerates the texture of the skin and draws attention to lines and crepiness.
Choose matt products, especially matt lipstick, as it makes the lips look thin and lifeless.
Apply blush to the bones of the cheeks — with age, cheeks often become sunken, and applying blush to the bones exaggerates any hollowness and makes us look gaunt.
Pumping the wand of your mascara doesn’t ensure even distribution but forces air into the tube, which dries out the product.
This is an exclusive extract from Jemma Kidd Make-Up Secrets, published by Jacqui Small, price 25. To order a copy for the special price of 19.99, with free home delivery, call the YOU Bookshop on 0843 382 1111 or visit you-bookshop.co.uk.