French Elle accused of racism after suggesting that the Obamas are first African-Americans to be fashionable
French Elle may be a fashion authority, but the glossy magazine is certainly no leader in race relations.
In what has been interpreted as an outdated and insulting move, a fashion blogger for the magazine's site posted a piece about Michelle Obama's sartorial prowess and the rise of a 'black-geoisie'.
New York Daily News goes so far as to brand the magazine as 'racist', while elsewhere online, the blog has caused uproar.
Fashion forward: The Obamas are the subject of a contentious Elle blog suggesting that black fashion has finally been given a chic makeover. Mrs Obama wore Alexander McQueen to a state dinner in 2010
Writing about the first family on the magazine's site, Nathalie Dolivo claims that the Obamas are the catalyst for a 'black fashion renaissance'.
She suggests that America's first black president has finally given the black community a 'chic' option other than 'streetwear codes'.
writes: 'Michelle Obama sets the tone, focusing on cutting-edge brands
… revisiting the wardrobe of Jackie O in a jazzy way.'
She believes black fashion in 2012
comprises a 'black-geoisie', a formula of fashion-forward black dressing
that mixes 'white codes' – whatever they may be – with touches of
African heritage, such as shells and 'boubous' (West African robes).
'There is always a classic twist, with a bourgeois ethnic reference (a batik-printed turban/robe, a shell necklace, a crole de rappeur) that recalls the roots' the writer notes, as translated by the Daily News.
'Racist' blog: French Elle has come in for condemnation after suggesting that the Obamas have finally made black fashion plausible
While the First Lady has widely been credited as a style maven, championing young American designers and choosing classic styles that flatter her athletic figure, her sartorial taste can hardly be termed as 'shells' and 'robes'.
The misjudged piece – which appears to have since been removed from Elle.fr – has spawned a vehement backlash.
That Ms Dolivo has omitted any
African-American history preceding 2012 is one bone of contention,
another, as Fashion Bomb Daily points out, is that she has failed to see
the 'impact' of a host of hugely influential figures in American
culture, such as the Supremes, Diana Ross, the Cosby Show's Clair Huxtable,
Salt N Pepa, TLC or Aaliyah – and onwards.
State of fashion: The First Lady last night wore a striking Barbara Tfank dress to the State of the Union address
The same site notes that French Elle readers were the first to express indignation at the 'ethnographic research'.
'[This is] GROTESQUE, SHAMEFUL, and USELESS. White dress codes Did I really read white dress codes..' writes one reader, while another adds: 'You really think we waited until the Obamas to know style and let go of our “streetwear” proclivities'
Comments reflect a sense of disbelief, with many bitterly sarcastic reactions. One reader asks: 'How, in 2012, in a France where there are at least three million blacks and mixed people, can you write such nonsense You are too kind when you write that in 2012 we have incorporated the white codes…what do you think, in 2011, we dressed in hay and burlap bags'
Elsewhere, fashion site The Gloss writes: 'French Elle writer Nathalie Dolivo is so happy about black people! She’s thrilled that they’ve finally learned to dress well! Yes, after generations mired in baggy pants and rap music and such, they finally have Barack and Michelle Obama to look to. Thanks, Obamas!'
Elle isn't alone in the magazine world for making racial slurs. Italian Vogue found itself in hot water last year for writing about the trend for 'slave' earrings, a gaffe they said was down to a mistranslation. Many branded the traditionally fashion-forward glossy anything but.