Fisherman chic hits London Fashion Week as Kinder shows a young, playful collection inspired by the deep blue
13:42 GMT, 16 September 2012
Kinder Aggugini may have cited fishermen as the inspiration for his spring/summer 2013 show – but if you ever see an old sea dog battling the waves wearing one of the Stephen Jones for Kinder headpieces he showed today, then I need to meet him.
Similarly, the low-slung fisherman's shorts and the doublebreasted blazers were much more couture-sur-le-mare than real trawlerman's garb.
But what charm! Models with windblown hair and cutesy pinafores with ditzy floral shirts followed beclogged, befreckled girls in gingham shirts down the catwalk.
Youthful: The collection was playful and young
Fisherman chic: The collection was inspired by designer Kinder Aggugini's reading of the Hemingway classic The Old Man And The Sea. RIGHT, the model wears a headpiece by Stephen Jones
Casual, playful: Bright dungarees and ditzy florals, and RIGHT, wet weather gear and handpainted clogs
Agguguni worked around the traditional naval palette – blue, red and white – but washed out the colors for a faded, carefree look to fit his 'gone fishing' theme.
Gingham and prints of island life added charm to the relaxed shapes, which included pieces like pinafores, low-slung shorts and boyfriend shirts, with hand-painted clogs finishing off the looks.
Hair was as if blown asunder by the wind, while the colour palette was muted nautical tones
VERDICT: LIZ HEMMINGS, SENIOR STYLIST, DAILY MAIL
It was modern, young and fun, with a Country and Western feel. Bird-printed pinafore dresses, dungarees in
bright red and box pleat short linen skirts, shorts and playsuits.
The season's cape appeared this time in printed floral canvas, and purple transparent plastic.
There were updated traditional linen staples like a taupe fitted jacket with gingham ribbon.
Dresses and shirts were in traditional gingham with lace over print, sometimes in combinations of colour.
For evening, a black transparent tee with
embossed velvet design, teamed with lurex shot black tweed shorts, and
appliqu velvet maxi dresses.
The freshfaced outdoorsy look isn't
for everyone – we certainly won't be seeing the red dungarees or the
handpainted clogs on the red carpet any time soon – but there were
elements here that could be borrowed by the sleeker dresser: printed
shorts, for instance, or high-waisted skirt that could happily be paired
with a slim-fitting top, or my favourite piece – that velvet gown with the creeping octopus tentacles.
who worked for Versace and Calvin Klein among others before
establishing his own line, said ahead of fashion week that he had been
inspired by Ernest Hemingway's The Old Man And The Sea.
The designer wove in the ocean theme in several standout pieces: a navy blazer had a white-dyed hem to imitate the sea's waves, while a black velvet gown bore a the tentacles of an octopus reaching towards the floor.
'It was all very fresh and sweet, very well made, very cute. It all worked,' said Hilary Alexander, a veteran British fashion editor who attended the show at London Fashion Week.
Others deemed the show the runaway success of the second day of shows that saw Issa, Henry Holland, Jasper Conran and John Rocha present their collections.
Tomorrow's schedule sees shows from Vivienne Westwood, Temperley, Unique and Paul Smith, as well as Jonathan Saunders, last year's winner of the BFC/Vogue fashion designer of the year award.
DESIGNER PROFILE: KINDER
Wunder-Kinder: Designer Aggugini on the catwalk today
DESIGNER NAME: Kinder Aggugini
BACKGROUND: Milan via Glasgow.
SIGNATURES: Coco Chanel marries Sid Vicious.
IDEAL CLIENT: Rocking chic.
THE COLLECTION: 'I read The Old Man And The Sea by Hemmingway again recently after many years and it touched me deeply. Although a very sad story, it depicts the strength of womankind. For spring/summer 2013, I wanted to bring this to idea to life in an optimistic and eccentric way.
I used conversational prints as the bias of the collection, to echo the conversations that man has with sea and that women have with each other.'
LONDON TIPS: “Westminster Cathedral – the whole of British History is buried there. Visit Columbia Road Flower Market on a Sunday morning for blooms and breakfast, and Sadie Cole’s HQ – my favourite gallery in London.
FUTURE PLANS: Menswear.