We loved Mad Men's new mid-Sixties look… But as the hit show's costumes are snubbed by the Emmys, is the retro trend over
Boardwalk Empire, The Borgias, Game of Thrones and Once Upon a Time received nominations insteadIt is the first time in five years that Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant has not had an Emmy nomination
17:49 GMT, 20 July 2012
Is it time to trade polished sheaths and all-business suits for lace gowns and tweed jodhpurs
Mad Men, with its influential Sixties style, was overlooked for an Emmy Award nomination on Thursday for costume design for the first time in its five-year run.
And while fans expressed shock about the snub, the fashion world has already embraced another nominee: Downton Abbey.
Snubbed: Despite the impact of the mid-Sixties looks in the latest season of Mad Men, worn to great effect by Jessica Pare as Megan Draper (pictured), the series failed to get an Emmy costume design nomination
Style with substance: From 'Fat Betty' (left) to Peggy Olsen's more senior position and eventual departure from Sterling-Cooper-Draper-Pryce (right), the costumes in Mad Men's fifth series told the story of each character
Episodes of Boardwalk Empire, The Borgias, Game of Thrones and Once Upon a Time also received nominations, but the likelihood of the masses finding their closets influenced by medieval Italians or mythical adventurers seems slim.
The British aristocracy of the early 1900s featured in Downton Abbey, however, is already making its mark.
Recognition: Downton Abbey, starring Dan Stevens as Matthew Crawley (left) and Zoe Boyle as Lavinia Swire (right), was given an Emmy nomination for costume design
Inspired: Ralph Lauren took heavy inspiration form Downton Abbey for his fall 2012 collection, even sending models down the catwalk to the hit PBS show's theme music
Ralph Lauren paid homage to the show in
the preview of his fall collection earlier this year, with models
walking down the runway to the soundtrack.
Expect more glamorous and embellished looks inspired by the show to take over store racks over the next few weeks, says Brooke Jaffe, director of fashion accessories at Bloomingdale's. 'There is a return to opulence,' Jaffe says.
Stylist George Kotsiopolous, co-host for E!'s Fashion Police, noted that gentlemanly looks, for men and women, come from the Downton Abbey pre-World War I period.
Historically accurate: The attention to detail in the outfits for Boardwalk Empire, starring Steve Buscemi (left) and Kelly Macdonald (right), won the HBO series an Emmy costume design nomination too
'Designers are influenced by the same things as stylists: movies, TV, music, art – whatever is the zeitgeist,' he says.
Costume party: The designs for Game of Thrones won the series an Emmy nomination
For the past few years, it had been the
chic, sophisticated Mad Men look that dominated the fashion
conversation, and the show had a wildfire ability to turn back the clock
on contemporary style to embrace the clean, refined lines of the early
Countless designers, including Michael Kors and Peter Som, cited its influence, and Banana Republic launched a Mad Men-branded collection.
'The shape had been the same for a while – the shaped waist, the va-va-voom look,' Kostiopolous says.
When it became common from Mad Men, he says, 'it becomes less interesting to fashion people.'
He doesn't think the look will go away altogether, though.
'Women looked good in the Fifties and Sixties because the clothes were universally flattering, and any guy looks great in a suit.'
AND THE EMMY 2012 COSTUME DESIGN NOMINEEES ARE…
Boardwalk Empire – Episode 21 (HBO)
John Dunn, Costume Designer; Lisa Padovani, Co-Costume Designer; Maria Zamansky, Assistant Costume Designer
Downton Abbey – Episode 1 (PBS)
Susannah Buxton, Costume Designer
The Borgias – The Confession (Showtime)
Gabriella Pescucci, Costume Designer; Uliva Pizzetti, Costume Supervisor
Game Of Thrones – The Prince Of Winterfell (HBO)
Michele Clapton, Costume Designer; Alexander Fordham, Assistant Costume Designer; Chloe Aubry, Assistant Costume Designer
Once Upon A Time – Hat Trick (ABC)
Eduardo Castro, Costume Designer; Monique McRae, Assistant Costume Designer