WAKE UP YOUR EYE MAKE-UP!
22:50 GMT, 20 June 2012
Our eyes are the first place to show the signs of ageing, but all it takes is a few make-up tricks to make them look younger and brighter. Here, three top make-up artists share their best tips, tools and products for creating beautiful eyes at any age.
Our eyes are the first place to show the signs of ageing, but all it takes is a few make-up tricks to make them look younger says Elsa
PROBLEM: Crepey lids
SOLUTION: Cream shadow
‘If the skin is crepey on your eyelids, eye shadow can accentuate the creases, so try applying a touch of concealer or illuminating foundation to create a light, even base,’ says Julia Biddecome, the make-up artist chosen by the Duchess of Cornwall on her wedding day. 'Then, using your fingers, apply long-lasting cream shadow only to the lid and into the socket — don’t apply all over the eye.’
Clinique’s new Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8-Hour Eye Colour, 17, in Seventh Heather, is a muted, brownish-mauve shade, which is great for the over-40s. And it should be crease-free for the whole day.
PROBLEM: Small eyes
SOLUTION: Curl your lashes
‘Nothing will enlarge your eyes as quickly or effectively as curling your upper lashes,’ says Julia. ‘For the best results, press your eyelash curler as close to the base of your lashes as possible, then apply your mascara, curl again, then add another coat. As a final touch, take an old mascara brush and comb through any cloggy bits.’
Julia recommends Clinique Lash Power Mascara Long-Wearing Formula, 16, in Black Onyx or Dark Chocolate.
From left: Dior Diorshow Waterproof Mascara, First Aid Beauty Detox Eye Roller and Clinique's new Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8-Hour Eye Colour, 17, in Seventh Heather
PROBLEM: Under-eye bags
SOLUTION: Instant de-puffer
‘As you age, bags under your eyes can press against your lashes when you blink. This results in smudges under your bottom lashes, which only makes you look more tired,’ says Julia. ‘Tackle under-eye puffiness with First Aid Beauty Detox Eye Roller, 18 (feelunique.com).
'This is a new, roller-ball style de-puffer that contains caffeine, hyaluronate and advanced peptides to tighten and smooth delicate undereye skin. It also provides a good canvas for concealer. If you do suffer from undereye puffiness, avoid drawing harsh lines under the eyes because they will only highlight the problem.’
PROBLEM: Hooded eyes
SOLUTION: Blending brush
If you’re wearing a hat for Royal Ascot, carry blotting papers in your handbag to blot along your hairline to remove excess foundation and prevent make-up smudging the brim.
Tatcha Papers, 11.50 for 30 (SpaceNK).
‘Make sure you are looking straight
ahead at yourself in the mirror, rather than down at a mirror, when
applying eye shadow,’ says celebrity make-up artist Lisa Eldridge, who
works with Kate Winslet, Vanessa Redgrave and Joely Richardson.
‘They will help you to create some depth
at the socket line. If you are using powder shadow, you need a large
blending brush — most people pick one that’s far too small. The best one
I’ve found is the MAC 217 blending brush, 16 (maccosmetics.co.uk).
Choose a light or medium taupe shade in a matte shadow (try Laura
Mercier Matte Eyeshadow in Cafe Au Lait, 18.50, SpaceNK) for the best
PROBLEM: Sparse eyebrows
SOLUTION: Clever eye pen
‘Strong brows can really lift your face, but the older you are, the less you suit a hard graphic line,’ says Lisa. ‘As you age, you may find gaps in your brows or that the colour has faded. Pencil in the gaps using light, feathering strokes — this lifts everything by a few millimetres.
‘I really like the Suqqu Eyebrow Liquid Pen, 20 (Selfridges) in brown, which works really well and has a fine brush tip so you can draw on lots of individual hairs. This brown is the perfect colour and you don’t get that unnatural chestnut shade you get with some brown pencils.’
PROBLEM: Wobbly eyeliner
SOLUTION: Delicate touch
‘Eyeliner is one of the hardest things to get right, and it’s even more difficult when the skin around your eye is creased,’ says Hannah Martin, a make-up artist who worked with Kate Middleton on her wedding day.
‘The trick is to use a delicate tool. I like Bobbi Brown’s Ultra Fine Eyeliner brush (21), which can be used to make lots of little strokes along the base of the upper lashes. To get a good flick, place your liner brush in the outside corner of the eye and draw a line that continues your lower lashes.
‘If lining under the eyes, ensure the liner is a softer shade than the shadow you’ve used above the eye, so that it doesn’t look too heavy. Sometimes dark liner under the eyes can overshadow whatever you have applied on top.’
From left: Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place pencil in Graphite or Coffee, 16 and Laura
Mercier Matte Eyeshadow in Cafe Au Lait, 18.50, SpaceNK
PROBLEM: Droopy lids
SOLUTION: Subtle flick
‘It’s easy to create the illusion of the eyes lifting slightly upwards,’ says Julia. ‘First, define your eyes with a pencil, gently working it into your top lash line. Go for brown or grey, which are more flattering than black — try Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place pencil in Graphite or Coffee, 16.
‘When you get to the corner of the eye, use a cotton bud to tease the end of the pencil line upwards into a flick. Another eye-lifting trick is to take a concealer pen (such as L’Oreal’s Paris True Match Touche Magique Concealer, 8.19) in a shade lighter than you usually wear and add a tiny touch at the outer corner of the eyes.’
PROBLEM: Sliding eye make-up
‘A light dusting of powder will set your eye make-up and prevent it sliding about,’ says Hannah. ‘The secret is to use a thicker eye shadow blending brush, which is smaller than the average powder brush, but the perfect size to use with loose powder to make sure you get into all the crepey bits and crevices evenly. Finally, don’t forget to apply powder under the eyes to catch any falling bits of mascara or eye shadow.’
THIS WEEK’S BEAUTY BULLETIN
FOUND! THE PERFECT FACE BASE ARE YOUR HEELS AGEING YOU
Next week, Teint Touche Eclat, a lightweight foundation from YSL, hits the shelves — 20 years after the launch of the iconic Touche Eclat concealer. It doesn’t clog your pores, hides imperfections and is suitable for all ages. You can get a free seven-day trial size from YSL beauty counters or join the 10,500 women who have put their names down for one at the Yves Saint Laurent Fragrances & Beauty page on Facebook. Le Teint Touche Eclat, 38 (Selfridges on June 28, then nationwide), in 22 shades.
Tight, uncomfortable shoes age your face, according to new research. ‘If you’re in agony wearing heels, the stress and discomfort shows in your face,’ says reflexologist Andrea Hurst.
‘Shoes that pinch your feet restrict your circulation and prevent nutrients being carried effectively in the blood.
The lymphatic drainage system, which helps your body get rid of toxins, is also compromised, so your skin will lose its natural radiance.’